Following the Eden - Section 2: Milburn to Kirkby Stephen

24 miles (38 km) | 640 metres elevation

Recommended time: Up to 3 days

Key points of interest

Soak up local history on route with visits to Appleby and Brough Castles.
Stroll along the banks of the River Eden - part of the Lady Anne’s Way.
Look out for wildlife including oystercatchers, swifts and otters.

Section two overview

After climbing over the Pennines, this section offers gentler walking through rolling countryside, woodlands and along riverside paths.

4 miles (7km) on from Milburn, arrive in Dufton - a centre for lead mining in the 18th and 19th centuries, with the Quaker owned mining company building houses, a school and installing piped water.

Enjoy spring bluebells and woodland wildlife in Dufton Ghyll Wood and Flakebridge woods before arriving in the attractive market town of Appleby-in-Westmorland, famous for its annual horse fair. Visit St Lawrence’s Church, explore Appleby Castle Museum and browse the traditional shops along Boroughgate.

After Appleby, follow the River Eden along the Pennine Journey and Lady Anne’s Way, crossing pastoral landscapes scattered with farms and looking out for otters or swifts in the summer months. Skirt the village of Warcop before arriving in Great Musgrave perched on top of a small hill with lovely views of the Eden Valley and Pennines.

From here, spot Fox Tower, a 18th century folly on the slopes on the Pennines and the stone cairns of Nine Standards Rigg above Kirkby Stephen.

Follow Swindale Beck to Church Brough. Just off route, find the ruins of Brough castle - built around 1092 within the site of a roman fort and rebuilt in 1203 after being destroyed by the Scots. In the late 1600s, the site was changed again by the Clifford family, especially Lady Anne Clifford, the inspiration behind Lady Anne’s Way.

In Brough Sowerby, visit the Black Bull pub, named after the old Scottish black cattle driven through on their way to market, and pass by Brough Sowerby Common for wildflowers such as birds foot trefoil, ragged robin, marsh bedstraw and meadowsweet grow.

Soon you’ll arrive in Kirkby Stephen at the end of the stage. Proud to be a ‘walkers welcome’ town, it’s a great spot to recharge. Visit the weekly market, established in 1352, explore the pretty cobbled alleyways, and stop by the historic church - known as ‘Cathedral of the Dales’ and home to the 9th century Loki stone.

Top tips

This section is good for countryside walking, rivers, rural villages and castles.
This is a rural area - we would recommend checking in advance opening times for any cafes or pubs outside of main centres. You may wish to take your own supplies or ask your accommodation if they can organise a packed lunch.
You may wish to complete this section in stages, staying in the same place and organising taxi shuttles each day. Book these services in advance via companies in either Appleby or Kirkby Stephen.

Facilities

Appleby and Kirkby Stephen both offer good facilities with tourist information centres, shops and places to eat. Outside of these centres, you will find a selection of rural cafes and pubs in places like Dufton, Church Brough, Brough Sowerby and Winton. Public toilets can be found in Dufton, Appleby, Brough and Kirkby Stephen.

Accommodation

The main options for accommodation on or near the route for this stage can be found in Dufton, Appleby, Warcop, Brough and Kirkby Stephen. There are also limited options scattered throughout some of the smaller villages.

Public transport

Both Appleby and Kirkby Stephen lie on the famous Settle to Carlisle Railway which also continues onto Leeds - offering a scenic way to arrive in the area. Note that the Kirkby Stephen station is 2km south of town - take the designated footpath or book a taxi in advance.

The 563 Stagecoach bus services connects Penrith, Appleby, Brough and Kirkby Stephen, while Western Dales Bus and Lonsdale buses both offer limited services between Kendal and Kirkby Stephen. Check timetables before travelling.

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Things to do nearby

In Kirkby Stephen, the Poetry Path features 12 poems carved into blocks of stone, all telling the story of the hill farmer’s relationship with the landscapes in and around the Upper Eden.
For something more strenuous, walk up to Nine Standards Rigg (650m) on Wainwright’s coast to coast route. Nine cairns mark the summit which sits near the border with Yorkshire.

Route updates

Check our news section for any updates on the route.

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