Exploring the Dales and Howgills - Section 3: Kirkby Stephen to Sedbergh

Low route: 16 miles (25 km) | 650 metres elevation

High route: 18 miles (29 km) | 995 metres elevation

Download: GPX File (High route) | GPX file (Low route) | OS Map

Recommended time: Up to 3 days

Key points of interest

Explore the scenic market town of Alston
Enjoy the unique surroundings of the North Pennines National Landscape
Tick off the highest point along the whole route and make a detour to Cross Fell

Section three overview

Follow the Coast-to-Coast walking route west out of Kirkby Stephen, climbing steadily up to Smardale Fell. As you leave town, look out for Croglam Castle - the remains of a large Iron age hillfort - and pass under the disused ‘Stainmore line’ part of which has been reinstated at Kirkby Stephen East station.
Enjoy excellent views of Smardale viaduct before crossing Scandale Beck on the 300-year-old packhorse bridge. Descend into Ravenstonedale with views beyond to the Howgills.
For the first time on the Westmorland and Furness Way, there are now two options - the high-level route over the Howgills or the less strenuous but still very scenic low-level route along their eastern edges.

The low route

On the low route, head south along a quiet country lane before joining the path that skirts Wandale Hill. This is still a walk in the hills with a high point of 400m. Take in the wide-open space of the moorland with views of Uldale and Whernside. In spring, look out for skylarks singing overhead.
After Narthwaite farm, arrive at Cross Keys where you cross paths with the route up to Cautley Spout waterfall - officially England's highest waterfall above ground, tumbling 198m down a rugged cliff face. Follow River Rawthey all the way into Sedbergh.

The high route

On the high route, from Ravenstonedale skirt the northern edges of the Howgills before turning south to head up into the fells, following the route of the Dales Highway.
Tick off West Fell and Hazelgill Knott before reaching The Calf (676m) - the highest point in the Howgills. From here there is a panoramic view of the Pennines, the Yorkshire three peaks of Whernside, Ingleborough and Pen-y-Ghent, the Kent estuary and many of the highest Lakeland fells. Then, it’s mostly downhill via Bran Rigg Top and Calders, passing between Winder and Crook, to follow Settlebeck Gill down to Sedbergh.

Sedbergh is an attractive, historic market town with a narrow main street lined with shops and cafes. It is known as England’s book town and has a number of bookshops.

Top tips

This section is good for wildflowers and open moorland.
As you leave Kirkby Stephen, an alternative route takes you along the Smardale Gill railway path. This would be more sheltered in poor weather, but it also gives you the option to visit the Smardale Gill Nature Reserve managed by Cumbria Wildlife Trust.
In bad weather, we would recommend taking the lower-level route, avoiding the high, exposed tops of the Howgills which would be difficult to navigate in poor conditions.

Accommodation

Outside the main hubs of Kirkby Stephen and Sedbergh, you will find accommodation options in and around Ravenstonedale on the north side of the Howgills and then also at the 400-year-old Temperence pub, The Cross Keys, on the lower-route. There are no facilities on the high-level route between Ravenstonedale and Sedbergh.

Public transport

A limited bus service runs between Kendal, Ravenstonedale and Kirkby Stephen - operated by Western Dales Bus and Lonsdale buses. There is the 563 Stagecoach bus service from Penrith to Kirkby Stephen and the option to arrive via the scenic Settle to Carlisle trainline.

Sedbergh is serviced by a limited bus service from Kendal and the mainline station at Oxenholme - operated by Western Dales Bus. Plan your journey before you travel.

Plan your journey here

Things to do nearby

Part of the disused ‘Stainmore line’ has been reinstated at Kirkby Stephen East station where there is a free railway heritage centre. Opening hours are very limited so check in advance.
While in Sedbergh, stroll along the river to Farfield Mill - a former Victorian woollen mill now housing a changing programme of exhibitions, artist studios and a shop selling a range of contemporary crafts produced locally.

Route updates

Check our news section for any updates on the route.

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