Alston

Pretty Alston’s main claim to fame is that, at 1000 feet above sea level, it is England’s highest market town, but it is well worth exploring for its steeply cobbled streets, hidden courtyards and quaint shops that invite exploration at every turn.
 
Surrounding the town is Alston Moor, a beautiful and diverse area known for its rare alpine flora and moorland birds, but 250 years ago it was all very different. This was once one of the richest mining areas in Britain and reminders of this industry are everywhere. Grassed-over spoil heaps, sunken pits, rusting machinery and a myriad of tracks and byways all speak of the riches once gleaned from underground. Nestling in these upland valleys are the lead-mining villages of Nenthead and Garrigill.

Historically, this harsh landscape nurtured close-knit, self-sufficient communities but it has now become an inspiration for the many craftspeople that live and work in this scenic corner of Cumbria. Today, the special combination of open moorlands and dales, scattered communities and a rich mining heritage defines the North Pennines AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty).

Culture & Heritage

Early days

The Romans worked opencast lead mines on Alston Moor (the whole area is honeycombed with old mine workings), while the earliest settlers scratched a living by raising animals and growing hardy crops. It was, to say, the least, a tough existence.

Over time, parts of the barren moorland were converted into productive farmland. However, farming alone wasn't enough to survive on and many householders supplemented their income through mining. Life on these upland hills was unremittingly hard, leading to poverty and a high infant mortality rate.

Valleys were repeatedly dammed and hushed, creating an overdeepened notch on the fellside - one of the best known being Dowgang Hush, near Nenthead. The difficulties of access created close-knit communities bonded by the common interests of mining, farming and religion. There are numerous Methodist, Quaker and Congregational chapels dotted all over Alston Moor.

Alston's Industrial Rise

In 1753 a Quaker-owned London Lead Company took over the mining rights and began to expand production. In 1828, the company designed and built Nenthead, the first purpose built industrial village in England. These small field enclosures remain as distinctive features of the area. Nenthead became the main centre of lead mining in the North Pennines – and the population of Alston Moor grew as a result to be five times what it is now. By the 1880s, however, many of the miners left for North America.

Steam train enthusiasts will be familiar with the Alston branch of the South Tynedale Railway, which puffed its way between Alston and Lintley between 1852 and 1976, eventually reopening in parts in 1983.

---

Surrounding Areas

Nenthead - The village of Nenthead was once one of the main lead mining sites in the North Pennines and here Quaker influence established facilities for schooling, reading, housing and bathing. Nenthead is one of the many villages to have had a huge influence on the North Pennines landscape.

Garrigill - Garigill village lies on the edge of the River South Tyne. In the centre of the village is a green, pub, post office and village store that has changed little since the 1950s.

---

Did you know?

UNDERGROUND CANAL

An underground canal of just over 4 miles in length links the Nenthead mines to Alston – the Nent Force Level. Its purpose was to drain the lead workings under Alston Moor and to survey for new mineral veins. The canal was excavated by John Smeaton (of Eddystone lighthouse fame) and became popular with Victorian daytrippers enjoying underground boat trips.

CROSS FELL

This is the highest point on the Pennine fells at 893 m (2930 ft). It used to be called Fiend’s Fell because evil spirits were believed to inhabit it. St Augustine, an early Christian missionary, is said to have erected a cross on the summit, held mass and banished the howling demons. The summit was thereafter known as Cross Fell.

WATERFALLS

The Nent and South Tyne rivers and their tributaries descend in a series of waterfalls from their source high on Alston Moor. The most impressive is Ashgill Force, which plunges 50 ft (15 m) over a hard ledge into a deep pool (it is possible to stand behind the waterfall). Other falls are at Gossipgate (the name refers to the many ‘tongues’ of water that spout over the rock sill), Skelgill and Thortergill.

HIGHEST MARKET TOWN

Alston is actually the highest market town in England at 1043 ft (318 m).

THE READING ROOM

The Reading Room in Nenthead, built by the Quaker London Lead Company in 1833, was England’s first free library. Nenthead was a major centre for lead and silver mining in the 18th and 19th centuries and this is what led the company to establish one of the first purpose-built industrial villages in England, which along with the reading room, featured housing, a school with compulsory education for both boys and girls, public baths and a washhouse for the miners and their families.

ALSTONITE

 A very rare mineral called alstonite was first discovered here – found in only a few other places in the world.