The green fields and woodlands of the Eskdale valley, embroidered with the sparkling thread of the river Esk, penetrate deep into the central Lakeland fells. Here, you’ll find the impressive Hardknott Pass and the small village of Boot, set amidst the stunning landscapes of the western Lake District.
At the coastal end of the valley lies the village of Ravenglass, where three rivers – the Esk, Irt and Mite – meet to form an estuary and natural harbour. Once an important Roman port and fishing town where ships docked at the end of its main street, today Ravenglass marks the end of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s also the only coastal village in the Lake District!
A little further inland, you’ll find the ancient Muncaster Castle, and Waberthwaite - a small village best known as the home of RB Woodall’s butchers and their famous Cumberland Sausage.
History & Heritage
Although Neolithic flints have been found in the sand dunes around Ravenglass, the best evidence of early humans came during the Bronze Age, when settlers lived on the high ground. The Romans were more interested in the natural harbour at Ravenglass, which became an important port around 79 BC. Little remains of the original fort, as much of the stone used to build it was removed when the Furness Railway was built in the 19th century, but the old Roman bath house - also known as Walls Castle - is still pretty much intact.
A Roman road led through Eskdale to connect the port with Hardknott Roman Fort (Mediobogdum) at the head of the valley, which then continued through Little Langdale to the Roman fort at Ambleside (Galava). Its position on an elevated spur hemmed in by mountains inspired a description of it as ‘an enchanted fortress in the air'.
Once the Romans had gone, Celts and Angles occupied the area; the former left a legacy of intricately patterned stone crosses. The next wave of occupiers were Vikings in the 9th century, who established homesteads and enclosures for their livestock. They also left names, like Waberthwaite (Wyburgh's clearing) and Brotherilkeld at the head of Eskdale, and a series of carved crosses and distinctively shaped hogback tombstones - the best examples being at Gosforth Church.
Just above the village of Boot, a gully in the fellside marks the site of Nab Gill iron ore mine, which exploited a wide vein of haematite (iron ore). The ore was commercially mined from the 1870s but enjoyed only a short period of prosperity. The remains of an incline, mine office and smithy can be seen from the track above Eskdale Mill.
At the base of the slope, a disused trackway and platform of the Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway can still be seen. This much-loved railway (La'al Ratty) was first opened in 1875 to carry iron ore from the mine at Boot to Ravenglass (where its freight was transferred to the Furness Line) but it has had a chequered history. After closure in 1913, it was re-opened as a narrow-gauge railway in 1916 and found a new purpose carrying granite. The quarries closed in the 1950s and the line once again fell into disuse, but in 1960 a group of railway enthusiasts stepped in to save it. The Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway has since become one of Lakeland's most loved attractions, providing an unforgettable experience through the glorious Eskdale countryside.
Things to Do
The Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway is one of the area’s most popular attractions, running between Ravenglass and Dalegarth for Boot station. Passengers can enjoy stunning views as they travel on this Lake District railway, with cafes at each end for refreshment.
A little inland stands Muncaster Castle, ancient family seat of the Pennington family with colourful spring gardens, a hawk and owl centre, medieval weapons hall, and lots to keep visitors amused for hours. Keep an eye out for events and festivals throughout the year. You can even stay in the castle, with self catering accommodation and glamping in the castle grounds.
This is a beautiful place to enjoy a walk or a bike ride, with routes like the 8.5 mile long Eskdale Trail which runs past the striking Stanley Ghyll waterfall.
At Eskdale, you can visit the last remaining working water-powered corn mill in the Lake District National Park: Eskdale Mill stands at the north of Boot village.
FAQs
Where is the deepest lake in the Lake District?
Did you know? There’s only one official ‘lake’ in the Lake District: Bassenthwaite. The rest are meres, tarns and waters. Nevertheless, they are often referred to as ‘lakes’ and so Wastwater is the deepest lake in England at 258ft (79m).
Is Hadrian’s Wall in the Lake District?
While the curtain wall of Hadrian’s Wall ends in Bowness on Solway, the UNESCO World Heritage Site Frontiers of the Roman Empire runs all the way to the coastal village of Ravenglass, which is in the Lake District National Park. Roman forts like Hardknott Roman Fort are also located in the Lake District.
Surrounding Areas
Eskdale - The green fields and woodlands of the valley of Eskdale, complete with the sparkling thread of the river Esk, penetrate deep into the central Lakeland fells. In the heart of this lovely valley is the small village of Boot.
Muncaster - A little inland stands Muncaster Castle, ancient family seat of the Pennington family with colourful spring gardens, a renowned owl centre, a celebrated ‘fool' and ghosts aplenty to keep visitors amused for hours.
Seascale - Seascale is a small coastal town in the Western Lake District. Situated between Whitehaven and Millom it is the perfect stop off when exploring this beautiful part of the Lake District.
Wasdale - The mountains around Wastwater are popular for their beauty. They include England’s highest mountain, Scafell Pike.
Did you know?
LA’AL RATTY
La’al Ratty is Cumbrian dialect for ‘little track’, referring to the narrow-gauge (15 inch/38 cm) track of the Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway.
This narrow-gauge railway has become one of Cumbria’s much-loved attractions, providing an unforgettable steam-driven trip through Eskdale to delight young and old alike. The line was built in 1875 to bring iron ore from the mines in Eskdale to Ravenglass.
RAVENGLASS ROMAN BATH HOUSE
The bathhouse, formerly known as Walls Castle, where legions of Roman soldiers came to wash and spruce up, is one of the best-preserved Roman buildings in the north of England. The walls are surprisingly high at nearly 4 metres (12 ft), with traces of original Roman plaster in situ. Two rooms survive but excavations have revealed more rooms, with hot, warm and cold baths. The earthworks of the adjacent fort can be seen in the field opposite.
HARDKNOTT ROMAN FORT
This far-flung outpost of the Roman Empire (known as Mediobogdum) guarded the military road between Ravenglass and Ambleside and is magnificently sited on a rocky spur overlooking Eskdale. It was completed in the 2nd century during the reign of Hadrian and garrisoned by troops recruited from Dalmatia, present day Croatia. The ruins are well preserved, thanks to their remote setting, and comprise four gateways and corner towers.
THE LUCK OF MUNCASTER
In 1464, after his defeat at the Battle of Hexham, King Henry VI sought refuge at Muncaster and, as a token of his gratitude, gave the Pennington family his glass drinking bowl with the wish that as long as it remained unbroken the Pennington family would prosper. Happily, the bowl is still intact and a replica can be seen on display in the castle.
HERDWICK SHEEP
This hardy hill breed of the central Lakeland fells is ideally suited to withstand the harsh Cumbrian winters. With their distinctive white heads, grey fleeces and sturdy legs, it is difficult to mistake the Herdwick for any other type of sheep. Over time, shepherds instilled a ‘hefting’ instinct in the breed, which ensured they stayed within their ‘home’ patch on the fells. Brotherikeld Farm, at the head of Eskdale, was one of the original ‘herdwycks’, and today, it is one of the largest Herdwick farms in the Lake District.
TOM FOOL
In the 1600s, Tom Skelton was the court jester (or fool) at Muncaster, but his exploits earned him a more sinister reputation. If travellers were discourteous to him, he was known to direct them onto the quicksands of the estuary. He is also believed to have murdered the castle’s carpenter and hacked off his head. These acts gained him a notorious reputation and brought a new word into the English language – ‘tomfoolery’.
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